Japan has a fascinating and multifaceted culture; on the one hand it is steeped in the deepest of traditions dating back thousands of years; on the other it is a society in a continual state of rapid flux, with continually shifting fads and fashions and technological development that constantly pushes back the boundaries of the possible. It could therefore be said that Japan is a country of stark contradictions and is in part this that makes it such a fascinating country to visit and a truly unique tourist destination.

Japan has a population of about 126 million - the eighth largest in the world - 75% of whom live in urban areas where population density is very high. In the industrial areas of Kansai and Kanto there is no discernible gap between cities. Yokohama and Tokyo, although separate in name, really make up a single urban conurbation which is the largest in the world.

Much of Japan however is very sparsely populated; there are large national parks and vast mountainous regions where the people's way of life is unrecognisable from urban Japan. Indeed, in order to protect Japan's rice crops from cheaper foreign imports, rural lives are government protected, although for how long no one can be sure.

Japan is no longer an expensive holiday destination. With zero inflation for the past 15 years and even a slight fall in many prices, the cost of living in Japan is now significantly less than many parts of the UK, and certainly prices of everyday items are comparable with those in other developed nations.

For those who have an interest in Buddhism or Shinto, Japan is full of fascinating places to visit. Nara, in the Kansai region near Osaka, is thought to be the original home of Buddhism in Japan and features an extensive museum of Buddhist art and artefacts, as well as the huge statue of Buddha that is Nara's central visitor attraction.

Kyoto is full of beautiful shrines and temples and can provide a unique look back through history to a time when religious belief was a more significant part of everyday life, as well as being simply stunning to behold. In fact, everywhere you go in Japan, you will see the face of the country's religious heritage.

The best place to try Sushi, slices of raw seafood placed on lightly vinegared rice balls, and sashimi, slices of raw seafood dipped in soy sauce, is a kaiten-zushi bar where you sit round a conveyor belt and pick plates of it, paying per plate eaten. But Japanese food does not stop with raw fish; other specialities include teriyaki - marinated beef/chicken/fish seared on a hot plate, sukiyaki - thin slices of beef, bean curd and vegetables cooked in soy sauce and then dipped in egg, and tempura - deep fried sea-food and vegetables.

If everything so far sounds a bit meat and fish orientated don't be alarmed - there are vegetarian options in Japan. Try the wonderful zaru soba - buck-wheat noodles served cold, a bowl of Udon - thicker noodles, in a mountain vegetable soup, tofu steak or a vegetable okonomiyaki - a savoury pancake. If you are feeling adventurous you could try natto, this is a sticky and slightly smelly concoction made of fermented soya beans. The Japanese liken it to marmite - you'll either love it or hate it.

If you want a more general selection, then the best place to go is an Izakaya, a Japanese pub, where you will find an extensive and pretty cheap choice of food and drink. Izakaya often offer tabehodai or nomihodai - for a set price you get an hour or two to eat or drink as much as you like. Choosing exactly what to eat is made easier by well illustrated menus or plastic food displays at the doorway that Madame Tussaud would be proud of - just point and see what you get.

Western and Oriental foods are widely available in Japan. From a country that survived on a diet of mainly fish and vegetables just over a century ago, Japan has reached the stage where there is a steak house or McDonalds on nearly every corner. Italian and Indian restaurants abound too, as well as some very good Chinese and Korean places. For a late night snack, a Ramen bar is a good bet, these can be found serving up steaming bowls of Chinese noodles, Japanese style, in various broth, until the small hours of the morning.

Japan is a country of drinkers - and a few rituals should be considered before taking a tipple. Never pour a drink for yourself; your friend or host should do this for you and you in turn should keep your companions' glasses filled to the brim! A word you'll hear quite often is kampai, which means 'cheers' in Japanese.

Whils Sake - rice wine - is the national drink of Japan, lager-beer, pronounced beer-ru in Japanese, is the most popular. Widely available brands include Kirin, Sapporo, Suntory, and Asahi which are all worth a taste and average about 5% abv.

Watch out for cheaper brands though - these are not actually beer at all but happoshu, a malt flavoured beverage. This looks and tastes like cheap beer but the low malt content allows the brewers to avoid beer taxes. As for the Sake, drink the cheap stuff which is a little rough on the palate hot, and the quality brands which are strong and fresh tasting, well chilled.

A wide variety of alco-pops called Chu-hai are available. Get them from a Konbini - a convenience store - such as Lawsons, Circle K or Family Mart, or in a restaurant or bar. Chu-hai is made from Shochu, a distilled spirit, which can be bought neat although this is not advised. Whisky is very popular amongst Japanese men - Scotch is considered the best and is highly sought after.

The weather is a favourite topic of conversation in Japan. This is unsurprising given the complexity of the climate in a country spanning 20 degrees of latitude.

From the harsh winters and mild summers of Hokkaido to the sub-tropical Okinawan climate there is a great variety in Japanese weather. Even in the same city both extremes of weather can be experienced in a year - Sapporo in Hokkaido can experience temperatures of minus 10 in the winter but heat waves of 30 degrees in the summer are not a rare occurrence.

On the mainland, summer temperatures are generally between 20 and 30 degree centigrade. In the early part of summer (mid-June to mid-July) there is a rainy season lasting a few weeks, this is however broken up by days of fine weather. Rains come again in late summer thanks to typhoons, although these usually blow over in a day.

Kyoto is the cultural and historical capital of Japan, with its proliferation of shrines and temples that lie hidden between the concrete constructions of the urban sprawl. It was home to the Japanese Imperial family from 794 right through to the Meiji restoration of 1868 when the Emperor decided to relocate his family and entourage to the new capital, Tokyo.

Much of what can be seen in Kyoto dates from the Edo period of 1600-1867, earlier constructions having been destroyed during more turbulent times.

For nearly three centuries the city flourished as a centre of religion, culture, politics and economic development. Having been spared the devastating aerial bombardment of WW2 that razed nearly every other important city in Japan, Kyoto is a unique monument to Japan's past.

However, what makes Kyoto especially interesting is the chance to feel the contrasts and contradictions that permeate today's Japanese society; the clash between the hustle and bustle of the modern city and the peaceful serenity of beautiful Zen-gardens; the frantic consumerism that runs so contrary to the minimalism of Japan's Buddhist and Shinto heritage.

The National Museum of Modern Art, one of many museums in the city, is a wonderful chance to see how contemporary artists are interpreting these contrasts. Take some time to explore and Kyoto will offer up countless treats and surprises.

The history of Mt Koya stretches back some 1200 years to the 9th Century when a monastic retreat was set up atop the mountain to serve members of the Shingon sect of Buddhism. This sect of Buddhism was founded by Kobo Daishi and his body is now enshrined in the Okunoin cemetery.

There are now 120 temples atop the mountain (there were over 1000 during its heyday) and many are nestled among the thick, black cedar trees which provide coverage and shade to many modern day pilgrims. The main reason many visitors seek out Mt Koya is to experience a stay in a Shukubo or temple lodging which have a long tradition providing shelter to weary pilgrims.

Accommodation at a Shukubo is in simple tatami mat rooms where there is little adornment or furniture other then a low table and perhaps some thin floor cushions. Meals are served in a communal dining room and the food is completely vegetarian. Beer however is permitted!

The real experience however comes early the next morning when guests are invited to join the resident monks in morning prayers. Prayers usually take place in an ornately decorated hall where you will find an altar decorated with flowers and fruit (used as an offering), gently smoking incense sticks and any number of elaborate bronze ornaments. All this is paraphernalia used in a ritual to honour the dead and the flowers, number of incense sticks to be burnt etc are all significant factors in this ritual.

There are a great many temples on Mt Koya and all are important in their own way. The most famous however is Kongosan-mai temple which was founded in 1223 by Hojo Masako the widow of Minamoto Yoritomo who was head of the Genji clan. The temple was built in memory of her husband and is decorated with beautiful depictions of elephants, lions and a flock of exotic birds.

The temple of Kongosan-mai is responsible for the occupants of the Okunoin necropolis, a huge cemetery with more than 200,000 stone stupas commemorating those buried. The best time to visit is in the early morning or late afternoon when the peace and quiet gives the area something of a spooky aura. Many of the graves have historically famous occupants including the General Oda Nobunaga, and the important Buddhist monks Nichiren, Honan and Shinran.

The Mausoleum of Kobo Daishi should be the next stop on your itinerary. The entrance is marked by the hall of lanterns where thousands of oil lamps donated by the faithful are kept constantly alight. The hall is ablaze with light which provides a stark contrast to the tomb itself which is simple and understated.

Gloriously situated, with the coast on one side and mountains behind, Beppu is an unusual and extraordinary place. Throughout the town pillars of steam rise up like smoke signals, as a reminder that this is one of the world's most geothermally active regions. As a resort town some of the attractions are rather tacky, but there is also a refined side to this hot spring heaven, with exclusive ryokan promising relaxing and therapeutic stays.

Beppu is certainly a fun place to stay. In the Kannawa area are found the famous jigoku or ‘hells', a collection of hot, multi coloured lakes, geysers and bubbling pools of mud surrounded by unusual and beautiful botanical gardens. Nearby, but not necessarily recommended, are the mixed, nude Myoban mud baths that claim to cure ills as diverse as arthritis and insanity! Also in this area you'll be able to find the bizarre and highly amusing Ashiya Sex Museum.

For a far more relaxed and less touristy experience however, a visit to the Takegawara Onsen is recommended. Here in this delightful old Meiji-era wooden building, the aches and pains of the day are eased away by the hot black sand that is piled on by muscle-bound, laughing old ladies. For an open-air version there are also hot sand baths available down on the beach and the possibility of swimming too.

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